It’s great flying to the United States from Dublin because you can go through US security and customs before you fly, thus saving tons of time and shedloads of angst at the other end when you’re tired and stiff after the transatlantic flight. Well, those of us who fly at the back of the bus, where it’s a bit cramped, are certainly not at our best, so it’s a big bonus only having to wait for luggage and queue at the car hire desk and not be quizzed mercilessly on your reasons for wishing to enter the country. Somehow, staring into a camera (iris recognition or some such) and having your fingerprints taken at the beginning of the trip seemed a lot less invasive and degrading…Nonsense of course but there you are.
The problem is that once through all the security rigmarole, there’s not much there, no shops to speak of and not much choice when it comes to food. Still, better to be through early. Mo and Brian, who are careful about what they eat, found themselves some yoghurt and fruit but I’d decided I had to do the early morning flight thing and have a Guinness. And to do that I needed something to soak it up, so the full brekkie it was – if not exactly the classic Irish (no soda farls or potato bread or black pudding) – but, sure, it would do. And the sausages and bacon were turkey, much touted as a healthy, lean meat.
Mo’s working for Sirius XM radio at the US Open, so she won’t be blogging this week, reserving all her energies for her research – meticulous, as you’d expect; she’s not a seat-of-the-pants merchant like her big sister – and for tramping the golf course in hot, humid, dusty conditions. Pinehurst No 2 is a brutal test of patience, concentration and skill for the competitors and a test of stamina for the spectators, especially those of us brought up on Ireland’s North Atlantic coast, where temperatures in the 90s Fahrenheit were unheard of and high humidity just meant a lot of rain.
Brian and I didn’t have tickets for the practice days so we did a recce on Tuesday, to see how long it would take us to get from our digs (in the middle of nowhere but just the job) to the red car park (free) and from there by bus/coach/shuttle to the property. I won’t say course because it took me a while to find that on Thursday when we were allowed in. Forgetting the paper map didn’t help and my old eyes struggle to deal with everything on my titchy phone.
Anyway, it was an easy-peasy journey, so we decided to wander in to Pinehurst village and have a mooch and some lunch. Well, that wasn’t straightforward but eventually we found a local, who had a buggy and took us up to the big hotel that’s the focal point of the village. Turned out he was head of agronomy for the whole Pinehurst Resort, all ten courses! How lucky were we.
We had a drink and some lunch in Dugan’s Pub (crab cakes for me), then I dragged Brian, who is not a shopper, into the Old Sport & Gallery and introduced him to the owner Tom Stewart. Tom is well used to welcoming random bods as though they’re old friends and we had a few minutes with him before the next well-wishers arrived. The place is such an eclectic mix that I could spend hours there but B had to be considered. He did pose for yet another pic, though.
There was another photo opportunity at the Pine Crest Inn, where back in 1980, at the World Amateur Team Championship, Dai and I were the unlikely finalists in one of their (in)famous chipping contests; I seem to remember that Michael Bonallack was one of the beaten contestants, long before he was knighted.
On Wednesday, Brian put himself – he’s our only driver – at my disposal and we visited Seagrove, the Pottery Capital of the United States, where it would take you weeks to work your way through every establishment. Much more my thing than B’s but then we finished our trip at Pine Needles Lodge & Golf Club, in between Pinehurst and Southern Pines, which got the thumbs up from my non-golfing Scot.
There’s something really special about the place, which was lovingly restored and built up by Peggy Kirk Bell and her husband Warren (Bullet) Bell and is now run by their descendants, a thriving golf business that maintains a homely, friendly feel, professional but unpretentious. It’s a Mecca for teaching the game and has now hosted several US Women’s Opens, though my most vivid memory is of shanking my chip from in front of the 18th green to lose to Dai on a chilly, goosebump-ridden evening. He was ecstatic. I was not.
Peggy was a force of nature and was one of the LPGA pioneers who travelled the country playing and promoting the fledgling professional tour. They were indomitable women. Peggy drove and also flew herself until the time she got caught in a snow storm and had to land her plane in a field. She decided that if she landed safely and survived, that would be enough flying for her! In later life she was renowned for racking up the speeding tickets in Southern Pines. Thanks to Lisa Mickey for those memories of a wonderful character, who became one of golf’s great teachers.
It’s worth going to Pine Needles just to look at the pictures and the memorabilia.
On Thursday, conscious that the midday sun might render us unconscious, we set off early and arrived at the red car park with hundreds of others of the same mind.
Many congrats to Robert Rock, who made what a friend at home called “a steady start”. It wasn’t steady, it was bloody brilliant, a level par round of 70 on a course that is beyond tough. This place is so demanding that Rory McIlroy said he’d take four rounds of 69 and be confident of winning the title. Not sure what he said after his opening 65.
Anyway, after my first round I had to go home, restore my electrolytes and lie down in a darkened room. This golf watching is not for wimps….